Hi,
I have not been surfing for very long but I really like it, and have got myself a decent board and a wetsuit. However, I have noticed in all the surfing magazines that they are geared up to show just professionals or semi-professionals surfing brilliant spots around the globe.
So I thought it was really cool that at last there is something a bit more for the beginner in your magazine and have recommended Surfriders Eye to my mates. Keep it up!
Thanks,
Simon Tucker Redruth, Cornwall


Liked your new mag. Definately different...looking forward to the tandem riding bit in the next issue. Just gotta convince my chick this is fun.
Gazza


Hi,
In your new mag Surfriders Eye there is a piece called 'Surfer of the 60's'
Where's this from? Is it a fictional story or true and is it published anywhere?
Brian Hill, Bristol

Ed. Yes this is a true account of a surfer of that era, and no, it has not been published, although we may run with a bit more of it occasionally.

 

Words used in surfing are growing and this taster is just the start, in no particular order watch this space for the unique language of surfing.

Cowbunge,surf report,surfing report,surf school,wipeout,wiping out,falling, down the mine,

Billabong,rip curl,fat face,gul,south to south,casio,surf village,learn to surf,expert,pro,

Beginner.

Terminology

Air.                 Getting air, a surfer gains maximum speed and hits the lip which sends 

                       board and rider high in the air.

Back-hand Surfing

                        Backhand means surfing with your back to the wave .So although                       nearly all surfers prefer riding forehand or front-side to the wave because when facing the waves they can maneuver with knowledge of exactly what the wave is doing. Back-hand surfing is much more difficult. Backhand you are surfing off your heels and it’s hard to see what’s going on.

Bombora         deep water surf break out in the ocean

Barrel.              The tube or tunnel of a breaking wave                             

Beach break.   A beach with waves

Bowl                A wave curves or bends around forming a bowl shape section.

Channel.          To paddle out in a channel, gap in the waves.

Closeout.         Wave breaks all at once

Cloud break      deep water surf break out in the ocean hard to see it from shore, distant break.

Cut back.           A surfer turns back toward the breaking part of the wave.

Double up.        When two waves break as one, or when one over-takes another.

Drop knee       body boarders kneel up on one knee to surf

Fades out.         A wave drops to nothing.

Fickle swell.      Inconsistent wave behaviour, long flat spells.

Flat spells.        Periods of no waves,seasonal.

Floater              A surfer floats across a whitewater section of the wave.

Forehand          Surfing along a wave facing the green un-broken part of the wave.

Glass off.           Conditions go clean, calm,smooth,mirror.

Gnarly.            A mean, heavy wave, with spent air bubbles, currents rips often a double up.

Hollow .           The wave is concaved, tubing or barrelling.

It`s going off.    This means it is very good. It means it is tubing, offshore and great hopes for riding some perfect waves. An expression `Its going off` means `special`.

Left.                  A  surfer goes to his left, a left-hand wave.

Lip.                  The forward edge of a breaking wave, curl.

Nose ride .       A longboarder stands on the tip of his surfboard and hangs ten , or five toes over the tip.

Mellow          Surfing in a cruising fashion laid back

Off the top.      A surfer turns off the lip and turns down or hits the crest and flies

 getting air.

Offshore         When the wind is from the land blowing out to sea the winds are offshore.Offshore makes the surface smooth and glassy.

Onshore         When the winds are blowing from the sea to the land they are onshore.Onshore makes the surface bumpy and choppy.

Point break.      Waves breaking alongside a point usually a reef or rocks sometimes a sand point.

Pearling          When the nose digs in the water.

Push and release power surfing : applying pressure down through the board and lifting of the pressure gives the long boarder and knee board fluid turns.

Reef break.       Submerged rocks or coral, forming a surfable wave to break.

Right.                A surfer rides to his right, a right-hand wave.

Rip .                  A rip-current or undertow, dangerous waters, turbulent.

Roundhouse.    A surfer carves a long sweeping turn back into the wave and completes one eighty degree.

Set                   A group of waves appear, set-on, the horizon goes black is a sign of it going.

Section.            A wave breaks un-evenly, a length of curl closes out, section is makable, he surfed a hollow section etc.

Shoulder.          The edge of the breaking wave between foam and swell face of the wave.

Sucky pit.           A hollow peak or wave forming a fast tubular section or close out.

Tube.               The barrel or pipe of a wave. The tunnel’s are tubing. Its going off!.

Trim.                A long boarder gains maximum speed and perfect top speed, by being in perfect trim.

Wave size    - Head high = 6` feet when surfer is seen riding standing up.

Wall .                A waves green wall or forming swell, the un-broken part of the wave.

Wedge.              Formed by a change of angle or second wave forming a peak on an 

                          existing wave.        

 Men’s Top list

 » Mick Fanning, AUS

» Taj Burrow, AUS

» Kelly Slater, USA

» Joel Parkinson, AUS

» Bede Durbidge, AUS

» Andy Irons, HAW

» Pancho Sullivan, HAW

» Jeremy Flores, FRA

» Dean Morrison, AUS

» Bobby Martinez, USA

» CJ Hobgood, USA

» Kai Otton, AUS

» Tom Whitaker, AUS

» Taylor Knox, USA

» Damien Hobgood, USA

» Luke Stedman, AUS

» Chris Ward, USA

» Michael Campbell, AUS

» Adrian Buchan, AUS

» Rodrigo Dornelles, BRA

» Neco Padaratz, BRA

» Leonardo Neves, BRA

» Fredrick Patacchia, HAW

» Bruce Irons, HAW

» Ricky Basnett, ZAF

» Daniel Wills, AUS

» Royden Bryson, ZAF

» Adriano De Souza, BRA

» Travis Logie, ZAF

» Dayyan Neve, AUS

» Ben Dunn, AUS

» Luke Munro, AUS

» Tim Reyes, USA

» Jordy Smith, ZAF

» Dane Reynolds, USA

» Jay Thompson, AUS

» Tiago Pires, PRT

» Aritz Aranburu, EUK

» Ben Bourgeois, USA

»  ASP World Tour Categories

»  ASP Women's World Tour

»  Men's WQS

»  Women's WQS

»  Longboard

World Tour

»  ASP World Tour

»  ASP Women's World Tour

»  Men's WQS

»  Women's WQS

»  Junior

»  Longboard

World Tour

»  Longboard WQS

»  Masters Events

»  Junior News

»  Longboard News

Top Women List

 » Stephanie Gilmore, AUS

» Sofia Mulanovich, PER

» Silvana Lima, BRA

» Samantha Cornish, AUS

» Layne Beachley, AUS

» Amee Donohoe, AUS

» Jessi Miley-Dyer, AUS

» Rebecca Woods, AUS

» Melanie Bartels, HAW

» Megan Abubo, HAW

» Rosanne Hodge, ZAF

» Jacqueline Silva, BRA

» Melanie Redman-Carr, AUS

» Karina Petroni, USA

» Serena Brooke, AUS

» Nicola Atherton, AUS

» Julia De La Rosa Toro, PER

   »  ASP World Tour Category

»  ASP Women's World Tour

»  Men's WQS

»  Women's WQS

»  Longboard WQS

» ASP Australasia

»  ASP Europe

»  ASP North America

»  ASP South America

»  ASP Africa

»  ASP Japan